Category Archives: topographical

Word: Zanzibar

Zanzibar
Zanzibar is now a semi-autonomous region of the East African country of Tanzania. Situated off the coast of the mainland just north of Dar es Salaam, it is an archipelago consisting of two large islands, Unguja (the main island, referred to informally as Zanzibar) and Pemba, and many smaller ones. Long ruled by Arabs (mostly from Oman) it was a Portuguese colony and latterly a British Protectorate, before merging with the then country of Tanganyika (now Tanzania) in the 1960s. Zanzibar’s main industries are spices (especially cloves, nutmeg, cinnamon and black pepper), raffia and tourism.


The word Zanzibar comes from Arabic Zanjibār (زنجبار), which is in turn from Persian Zang-bār (زنگبار), a compound of Zang (زنگ, “Black”) + bār (بار, “coast”).
As so often there is a whole host more information on Wikipedia.

Your Interesting Links

Slightly later than planned, and hence slightly longer than usual, here is my monthly list of articles you might have missed before …
Science & Medicine
Kazakhstan is a treasure trove of naturally wild and flavourful apple varieties.
Welcome the tiny ingestible origami robot which can be used for repairing wounds.


Ocean scientists have been using message in a bottle techniques for over 100 years, and they still are.
One mouse, two mouse, three mouse … Can cats count mice?
And still on felines … can a cat have an existential crisis? Spoiler: yes. [Long read]
Ear wax is very strange and mysterious stuff. [Long read]
Sexuality
OK, girls, so does the ‘G-Spot’ actually exist?
Do humans actually send out airborne aphrodisiac pheromones to attract potential mates? Erm … dunno.
Social Sciences & Business
On the social and design engineering of high heels. [Long read]
How many friends do you have? Are they really your friends?
Alain de Botton on why you will marry the wrong person. And there’s not much you can do about it!
Language
What’s it like learning to talk all over again? Learning Chinese as an adult.
Art & Literature
From mega-libraries down to nano-libraries … here’s the story of London’s smallest library.

Wow! The whole of Samuel Pepys’ Diary is now online.
History
It seems that Ice Age Europe wasn’t populated by who we thought.
The Fitzwilliam Museum in Cambridge have discovered that one of their Ancient Egyptian coffins holds them youngest known mummified foetus.
Ancient toilets can tell us a lot about the lifestyle of their users, and it seems the flush toilet goes further back than we thought. [Long read]
The colour of monastic habits was much more fraught with controversy than one might suspect.
A plague on all your houses. New research suggests that the Black Death was even more devastating than we thought.
Ianvisits reviews the exhibition of the lost library of the Tudor magician John Dee.
Slowly coming more up to date, here’s a look at the background and organisation of the Gunpowder Plot.
An unsuspected mass grave in Durham is though to hold the remains of prisoners from the Battle of Dunbar.
Investigations into a 1661 document awarding £20 to Major Smith.
Lady Antonia Fraser on the sexy and scandalous truth about Versailles and the new BBC series about the same.
How old is that London house? Is it Georgian Or Victorian?

London was devastated during World War 2. The recently published LCC bomb damage maps reveal all. It’s a magnificent volume!
There have been lots of weird and wonderful proposals for building in London which have come to naught. Here are some, arranged by Underground station.
Food & Drink
How to tell real Parmigiano Reggiano from imposters. Science now has a way.
People
So here are two pieces about the forensic mysteries of identifying unknown bodies.
First the mystery of Saddleworth Moor: who was the man they’ve nicknamed Neil Dovestone?
And in the US, just as here in the UK, the identification of nameless bodies can take years before the mysteries are solved.
Shock, Horror, Humour
So here’s a little quiz to end with … What is London’s longest tunnel? It’s OK, I got it wrong too.
More next month.

Oddity of the Week: Train Stations

It is well known, at least around here, that Britain has more than its fair share of eccentrics. And we have had for a very long time. Think back to John Aubrey, John Evelyn and even Samuel Pepys. Then there are the eccentric Victorian clergyman, with too much time on their hands, who investigated everything from stone circles to the propagation of primulas and photography.


Dolau station in Wales (photo: David Brewer)

Should we therefore be surprised that, even today, the eccentrics are still amongst us? And the latest example: David Brewer, from Chorley in Lancashire, who has spent the last 8 or 9 years photographing every single railway station in mainland Britain. Why? Because they’re there.

Book Review: London

Julia Skinner (ed)
Did You Know? London: A Miscellany
Francis Frith Collection, 2014
londonThis is a very small book of just 60 pages and under A5 in size, but it is nicely produced in a good hard cover. It is text heavy, which is good, with about 30 B&W photographs of London nearly all from the period 1875 to 1915. It essentially covers “central London”, being the Cities of London and Westminster, although there are mentions of some areas a little outside like Southwark and the docks.
While I found some of the photographs interesting, the text was dull. The writing hurries along, with fact hard upon fact, quite relentlessly and with little change of pace, tone or style — which makes for difficult reading. I wasn’t helped by already knowing most of the contents — but then I’m not the book’s core audience.
Some of the facts are things which many people wouldn’t know. For example, the Eleanor Cross in front of Charing Cross Station is a Victorian replica of the original which stood on the site at the top of Whitehall/south of Trafalgar Square where there is now an equestrian statue of Charles I (but that is a book all on its own).
Near the back of the book is a short quiz of London trivia (most Londoners should get at least 8 out of 10) and a bit about Francis Frith, the “pioneer Victorian photographer” who started the picture archive which still bears his name and who published this book.
Apart from not engaging me, my main gripe would be the lack of a map to show how all the areas discussed fit together. I would have liked this and I feel sure it would be invaluable to anyone using the book as (part of) a tourist guide.
Overall the book contains lots of factlets about London and some fascinating images, so that if you don’t know London (or don’t know its history well) then this would be a good and interesting introduction. It just didn’t really do it for me.
Overall Rating: ★★★☆☆

Weekly Photograph

This week another from our recent short break in Rye. On the way hope we detoured via Dungeness — such a wonderful expanse of shingle and environmentally hugely important. As might be expected there was a lot of sea kale growing; this is one particularly splendid example. But, yes, I’ve tinkered with the photo to make it even more dramatic!

Sea Kale at Dungeness
Sea Kale at Dungeness
Dungeness; September 2015
Click the image for larger views on Flickr

Oddity of the Week: Monorail

According to the Monorail Society website, the first ever passenger carrying monorail was in my home town, at Cheshunt:

1825 — Cheshunt Railway
The first passenger carrying monorail celebrated a grand opening June 25th, 1825. It had a one-horse power engine … literally. Based on a 1821 patent by Henry Robinson Palmer, the Cheshunt Railway was actually built to carry bricks, but made monorail history by carrying passengers at its opening.


And I’m pleased to have been on the world’s oldest monorail which is still in operation: the Wuppertal Schwebebahn (above) which is also the only public passenger carrying dangling railway. It is certainly an interesting ride.

Cedars Park

Updated 17 February 2022; mostly correcting old links

I belong to several Facebook groups about my home town, Waltham Cross and Cheshunt in Hertfordshire. On one of them there was a thread about the park which was less than 10 minutes walk from my house and which I knew well from a very early age. Needless to say someone found and posted a few old photographs and postcards which triggered me to remember what I knew about the park and its surroundings.

Cedars Park covered part of the site of the old Theobalds Palace, which was built around 1560 by William Cecil and where he entertained Queen Elizabeth. The Palace was subsequently “stolen” from Robert Cecil, Lord Burghley, by James I in exchange for Hatfield House. It was here that Prince Charles (later Charles I) spent much of his childhood. James I died and Charles I was proclaimed King here. Although few contemporary images of Theobalds Palace survive, it appears to have been a late Tudor masterpiece. So needless to say it was razed to the ground by Oliver Cromwell’s merry men.

Theobalds_Palace_Engraving
An 18th century Engraving of Theobalds Palace

Subsequently the estate — used by James I as a deer park — was split up and an 18th century house built on the site of the palace. Old Palace House, as I knew it, even contained a couple of the original Tudor windows from the palace, but apart from that the exact location of the palace was lost beneath the ground. As befitted a large house of its period, Old Palace House had formal gardens, stables, a kitchen garden and a large orchard. In 1919 the adjoining area was given to the local council as a municipal park: Cedars Park, so named because it contained two enormous Cedars of Lebanon which it is suggested are contemporary with Theobalds Palace. The park also contained two very old Mulberry trees which may also have been contemporary with the Palace.

I knew Cedars Park well in the 1950s and ’60s — basically from the time I could walk, and maybe earlier — less well in the ’70s when I was away at university. Since the ’70s the park has been extensively remodelled and modernised; in the process there has been a great deal of archaeological work done and the ground layout of Theobald’s Palace is now pretty well documented.

The old lady who lived in Old Palace House must have died in the very early ’60s; the house was shut up and ownership passed to the local council. It is at this period, the mid-60s, that I knew Old Palace House and its grounds. The house itself was burned down — as usual in suspicious circumstances — in the early ’70s and it is this which, eventually, started the process of clearing the site and extending the park.

One of the first acts, after making the buildings safe (ie. demolishing most of what was left) was to grub out the orchard, turn it into a field and tack it on to Cedars Park by making an opening in the dividing (ancient) wall.

As you can see there is an awful lot of history here, so if you want to delve deeper you might want to look at:
For more on the history of Theobalds Palace see British History, Hertfordshire Genealogy and Hertfordshire Memories.

For more on the history of Cedar’s Park see Broxbourne Borough Council and Wikipedia; there is also a website for Cedar’s Park.

There is lots of detailed information on the archaeological excavations around Cedars Park, mostly done by Oxford Archaeology, in their site reports here and here.

I also wrote briefly about Old Palace House in a 2009 blog post.

What now follows is my recollection of Cedars Park, and Old Palace House and grounds, as I knew them in the ’50s and ’60s.

First of all an annotated sketch map, then a few more recollections.

You will want to look at this in a larger size, so click the image
cedars
Not to scale. North at the top.

A : Main entrance
B : Bridge over the stream (such as it was, usually dry)
C : Toilets
D : Monkey Puzzle tree
E : Cedar Tree (both were also very old when I knew them in ’50s & ’60s)
F : Flint-built follies
G : Old gate in the wall; later made into a larger opening when the orchard was grubbed out and the field made part of the park.
*H : Council Park Department hothouses & cold-frames (which grew most of the flowers of civic occasions and for formal planting around the town)
*I : Hothouse conservatory which housed pot-plants for formal civic occasions; it was always full of colourful pants like calceolaria and coleus
J : Conservatory shelter
K : Horse Chestnut trees
L : Pink specimen Horse Chestnut tree
M : Mulberry tree (both were very old; maybe as much as 300 years in 1950s); blimey did the fruit make a mess on the grass!
N : Herbaceous borders against walls
O : Very old wall, probably late-16th or very early 17th century; had niches for bee skeps
*P : Park-keeper’s “lodge”
*Q : Old Palace House
R : Rose walk/arcade
*S : Stables
T : Conservatory containing a glass case with two(?) stuffed tigers; later a colony of live budgerigars was added. In the early days (’50s) you could walk round the conservatory containing the glass case of tigers but obviously that stopped once the budgies were installed.
*U : Old walled kitchen garden (I think)
V : Remains of concrete plinth which had supported WWI tank
*W : Huge old walnut tree, which was the only tree kept (in the middle of the field) when the orchard was grubbed out and the resulting field made part of the park
*X : Driveway to Old Palace House
Y : Formal flowerbeds
Z : Thatched shelter

[Note that everything marked * plus Old Palace House garden, lawn, orchard and the rough land was outside the perimeter of Cedars Park as I knew it in the ’50s and ’60s (although the park keepers kept an eye on most of it once Old Palace House was owned by the council).]

Here are a couple of postcard views of Cedars Park from, I think, the early 1950s.

Cedars_c1950_1
This is looking towards the main gate (A) from roughly the point (V) on the plan.

Cedars_c1950_2
This shows the thatched shelter (Z) with the mulberry tree (M) and cedar tree (E) beyond from in front of the follies (F) on the plan.

By the time I knew them, all the areas of Old Palace House and grounds were pretty well unkempt: lawns not cut; shrubs not pruned; orchard trees not cared for; house shut up and damp. We were occasionally allowed access to the Old Palace House grounds on a Sunday afternoon because we knew one of the park keepers who worked something like one Sunday in three. Once or twice we were taken over the house and stables.

OPH_c1935This is the rear of Old Palace House in about 1935. Note the two, possibly three, Tudor window embrasures.

The orchard, full of very old fruit trees, was a delight despite being overgrown with grass and bramble. A handful of times, over a couple of autumns, we were allowed to go in there and help ourselves to whatever fruit we could carry away (usually in rucksacks). The orchard contained just about every imaginable old variety of apple and pear. And the apples were to die for; wonderful varieties that one never sees today, many of which we couldn’t even identify. Obviously there were also things like cherry trees — stripped by the birds early in the season! I think I remember raspberry canes too. And then there was the enormous mature specimen walnut tree (that’s my memory, anyway) which stood in the middle. This walnut tree was the only tree kept when the orchard was grubbed out (in the early 70s?); I have a memory that my mother painted it in wonderful autumn colour, standing majestically alone in what was by then a field belonging to the park. While one deplored the orchard being grubbed out, the trees were so old and neglected that there was realistically little other option.

Also, knowing the park keeper, we sometimes got a look round the hothouses and the conservatory. The latter was always full of colourful plants being grown for civic occasions — calceolarias, coleus and I forget what else. Outside there were cold-frames and I think an area used for bringing on rose bushes, trees etc. Plus the inevitable sheds housing big lawn mowers and other machinery, potting sheds etc. The hothouses were heated by some old coal-fired furnaces, which had to be stoked up last thing at night and would apparently just about last until the morning.

Going back to the park, I loved the Monkey Puzzle Tree, the Cedars, the Mulberry trees; I remember rolling down the bank from the path by the Monkey Puzzle; and with the large number of Horse Chestnut trees it was a great place to hunt for conkers. I never did much like the tigers or the follies. Nevertheless the park was for me a fairly magical place.

As I grew into my teens and beyond I came to much more appreciate the old walls and Old Palace House with its Tudor windows. Indeed I remember drawing the Tudor windows (badly, it has to be said) for Art homework; that would have been 1966 or ’67. And I have the following three, not very good, B&W photographs of Old Palace House from around 1964 (they may have all been taken on the same day) …

OPH rear
This shows the derelict state of the house after only a few years empty. Note the two Tudor windows at centre, plus a possible third, smaller one, to the right.

OPH rear
Another image of the rear of Old Palace House with a surprisingly tidy looking lawn. This must have been taken by my father as the young teenager (right middle-ground) is me; note also a small dog.

OPH front
And here is the front of Old Palace House, taken from the front lawn.

I also remember Theobalds Lane, between Cedars Park and Crossbrook Street (so the part off the right of the map) from the mid-1950s; it really was a country lane then. The land to the south was covered in glasshouses, which from memory grew tomatoes and cucumbers — as did a lot of the Lea Valley. The land on the north side had some glasshouses but also a couple of orchards, where I remember my mother buying apples in the autumn — that might even have been before I started school, so 1955 at latest. This was all demolished and grubbed out somewhere in the late ’50s and the housing estate built — and completed long before I went to the Grammar School in 1962 and possibly before Theobalds Grove Station reopened in November(?) 1959.

I’ll write more if I come across any more photographs.

Oddity of the Week: Kew Gardens

The Royal Botanic Gardens at Kew (aka. Kew Gardens) has been in existence since 1759 so it isn’t surprising it has a few little eccentricities.
The Gardens has its own police force, which with 17 staff and one vehicle is one of the smallest police forces in the world.
Turner’s Oak was planted in 1798 but was feared destroyed in the great storm of October 1987. However it was discovered that the tree had been lifted by the storm and dropped back down in place; this loosened the soil round the roots and gave the tree a new lease of life. As a result a new technique for treating old trees has been developed.


The Palm House is home to the world’s largest pot plant, an enormous Jurassic cycad, Encephalartos altensteinii, collected from the wild in the 1770s. It has a four metre wide trunk and is repotted roughly every 20 years.

Kew is also home to the smallest royal palace in the country, Kew Palace, which is more the size of a manor house than a palace. The palace (also known as the Dutch House) was reopened to the public in 2006 following a 10 year restoration.
From 7 things you never knew about Kew Gardens.

Oddity of the Week: Myddleton Passage

Myddelton Passage is a quiet road near Sadler’s Wells Theatre in London EC1. Initially a narrow footpath, the street was widened in the early 19th century as a result of nearby development, but despite this expansion it was considered to be a dark and dangerous alley throughout the Victorian era; a reputation making it notorious enough to feature in George Gissing’s 1889 novel, The Nether World.
Today you can walk along Myddelton Passage in the evening without fearing for your life. But look more closely at the wall running along its southern edge and you’ll see a hint of its shadier Victorian past.


Carved into the brickwork of the wall is a large collection of seemingly random numbers. They were mostly carved around the mid- to late-19th century by an array of police officers and each number represents the respective bobby’s collar number. Most of the numbers feature a a letter ‘G’ linking them to ‘Finsbury Division’; the team who operated out of the former King’s Cross police station.
Quite why so many Victorian coppers chose to create this swathe of graffiti in this particular location remains something of a mystery.
From Cabbie’s Curios: The Policemen’s Wall

Coming up in December

December is, of course, the month of Christmas and consequently that takes over most events etc. So this month’s list is rather abbreviated.
1 December
On this day in 1934 author Anthony Powell and Lady Violet Pakenham were married at All Saints, Ennismore Gardens, Knightsbridge (below).


12 December
1889 saw the death, in Venice, of poet Robert Browning on the day his last work Asolando was published.
21 December
Winter Solstice. That dark day when we in the Northern Hemisphere have the fewest hours of daylight. This day is also celebrated as the festival of Yule in many pagan traditions when the year turns and the days begin to lengthen again towards Spring.
24 December
Christmas Eve is traditionally the day for celebratory meals and the exchange of presents in many European countries. In the UK it is, of course, the final mad dash up to Christmas Day.
25 December
Christmas Day. Hodie Christus natus est. Today we have a very commercial and secularised Christmas Day whereas in much earlier times it was one of the few holidays when peasants were not expected to work but to attend church, feast and make merry (if they could afford to). There are many Christmas Day traditions around the country, so have a search for what’s happening near you.
26 December
Boxing Day and the Feast of St Stephen. Boxing Day is traditionally the day when servants and tradespeople would receive gifts (a “Christmas box”) from their bosses or employers. Although this custom has generally now died out there are many community events, both traditional and modern, on Boxing Day which often raise money for charity. The day is a public holiday in the UK and many other countries, a big day in the sporting calendar and also marks the start of the winter sales. Again seek out your local traditional events which may include Morris dancing or customs such as the Greatham Sword Dance.

31 December
New Years Eve, the last day of the old year, is another day on which there are many traditional customs as well as the usual social gatherings to see out the old year and welcome the new. Once more look out for your local customs like the Allendale Tar Barrel Ceremony. This is also one of the days on which we should be wassailing our apple trees and raising a glass to both their fruitfulness and general prosperity in the coming year.