Category Archives: topographical

Book Review: London

Julia Skinner (ed)
Did You Know? London: A Miscellany
Francis Frith Collection, 2014
londonThis is a very small book of just 60 pages and under A5 in size, but it is nicely produced in a good hard cover. It is text heavy, which is good, with about 30 B&W photographs of London nearly all from the period 1875 to 1915. It essentially covers “central London”, being the Cities of London and Westminster, although there are mentions of some areas a little outside like Southwark and the docks.
While I found some of the photographs interesting, the text was dull. The writing hurries along, with fact hard upon fact, quite relentlessly and with little change of pace, tone or style — which makes for difficult reading. I wasn’t helped by already knowing most of the contents — but then I’m not the book’s core audience.
Some of the facts are things which many people wouldn’t know. For example, the Eleanor Cross in front of Charing Cross Station is a Victorian replica of the original which stood on the site at the top of Whitehall/south of Trafalgar Square where there is now an equestrian statue of Charles I (but that is a book all on its own).
Near the back of the book is a short quiz of London trivia (most Londoners should get at least 8 out of 10) and a bit about Francis Frith, the “pioneer Victorian photographer” who started the picture archive which still bears his name and who published this book.
Apart from not engaging me, my main gripe would be the lack of a map to show how all the areas discussed fit together. I would have liked this and I feel sure it would be invaluable to anyone using the book as (part of) a tourist guide.
Overall the book contains lots of factlets about London and some fascinating images, so that if you don’t know London (or don’t know its history well) then this would be a good and interesting introduction. It just didn’t really do it for me.
Overall Rating: ★★★☆☆

Weekly Photograph

This week another from our recent short break in Rye. On the way hope we detoured via Dungeness — such a wonderful expanse of shingle and environmentally hugely important. As might be expected there was a lot of sea kale growing; this is one particularly splendid example. But, yes, I’ve tinkered with the photo to make it even more dramatic!

Sea Kale at Dungeness
Sea Kale at Dungeness
Dungeness; September 2015
Click the image for larger views on Flickr

Oddity of the Week: Monorail

According to the Monorail Society website, the first ever passenger carrying monorail was in my home town, at Cheshunt:

1825 — Cheshunt Railway
The first passenger carrying monorail celebrated a grand opening June 25th, 1825. It had a one-horse power engine … literally. Based on a 1821 patent by Henry Robinson Palmer, the Cheshunt Railway was actually built to carry bricks, but made monorail history by carrying passengers at its opening.


And I’m pleased to have been on the world’s oldest monorail which is still in operation: the Wuppertal Schwebebahn (above) which is also the only public passenger carrying dangling railway. It is certainly an interesting ride.

Cedars Park

Updated 17 February 2022; mostly correcting old links

I belong to several Facebook groups about my home town, Waltham Cross and Cheshunt in Hertfordshire. On one of them there was a thread about the park which was less than 10 minutes walk from my house and which I knew well from a very early age. Needless to say someone found and posted a few old photographs and postcards which triggered me to remember what I knew about the park and its surroundings.

Cedars Park covered part of the site of the old Theobalds Palace, which was built around 1560 by William Cecil and where he entertained Queen Elizabeth. The Palace was subsequently “stolen” from Robert Cecil, Lord Burghley, by James I in exchange for Hatfield House. It was here that Prince Charles (later Charles I) spent much of his childhood. James I died and Charles I was proclaimed King here. Although few contemporary images of Theobalds Palace survive, it appears to have been a late Tudor masterpiece. So needless to say it was razed to the ground by Oliver Cromwell’s merry men.

Theobalds_Palace_Engraving
An 18th century Engraving of Theobalds Palace

Subsequently the estate — used by James I as a deer park — was split up and an 18th century house built on the site of the palace. Old Palace House, as I knew it, even contained a couple of the original Tudor windows from the palace, but apart from that the exact location of the palace was lost beneath the ground. As befitted a large house of its period, Old Palace House had formal gardens, stables, a kitchen garden and a large orchard. In 1919 the adjoining area was given to the local council as a municipal park: Cedars Park, so named because it contained two enormous Cedars of Lebanon which it is suggested are contemporary with Theobalds Palace. The park also contained two very old Mulberry trees which may also have been contemporary with the Palace.

I knew Cedars Park well in the 1950s and ’60s — basically from the time I could walk, and maybe earlier — less well in the ’70s when I was away at university. Since the ’70s the park has been extensively remodelled and modernised; in the process there has been a great deal of archaeological work done and the ground layout of Theobald’s Palace is now pretty well documented.

The old lady who lived in Old Palace House must have died in the very early ’60s; the house was shut up and ownership passed to the local council. It is at this period, the mid-60s, that I knew Old Palace House and its grounds. The house itself was burned down — as usual in suspicious circumstances — in the early ’70s and it is this which, eventually, started the process of clearing the site and extending the park.

One of the first acts, after making the buildings safe (ie. demolishing most of what was left) was to grub out the orchard, turn it into a field and tack it on to Cedars Park by making an opening in the dividing (ancient) wall.

As you can see there is an awful lot of history here, so if you want to delve deeper you might want to look at:
For more on the history of Theobalds Palace see British History, Hertfordshire Genealogy and Hertfordshire Memories.

For more on the history of Cedar’s Park see Broxbourne Borough Council and Wikipedia; there is also a website for Cedar’s Park.

There is lots of detailed information on the archaeological excavations around Cedars Park, mostly done by Oxford Archaeology, in their site reports here and here.

I also wrote briefly about Old Palace House in a 2009 blog post.

What now follows is my recollection of Cedars Park, and Old Palace House and grounds, as I knew them in the ’50s and ’60s.

First of all an annotated sketch map, then a few more recollections.

You will want to look at this in a larger size, so click the image
cedars
Not to scale. North at the top.

A : Main entrance
B : Bridge over the stream (such as it was, usually dry)
C : Toilets
D : Monkey Puzzle tree
E : Cedar Tree (both were also very old when I knew them in ’50s & ’60s)
F : Flint-built follies
G : Old gate in the wall; later made into a larger opening when the orchard was grubbed out and the field made part of the park.
*H : Council Park Department hothouses & cold-frames (which grew most of the flowers of civic occasions and for formal planting around the town)
*I : Hothouse conservatory which housed pot-plants for formal civic occasions; it was always full of colourful pants like calceolaria and coleus
J : Conservatory shelter
K : Horse Chestnut trees
L : Pink specimen Horse Chestnut tree
M : Mulberry tree (both were very old; maybe as much as 300 years in 1950s); blimey did the fruit make a mess on the grass!
N : Herbaceous borders against walls
O : Very old wall, probably late-16th or very early 17th century; had niches for bee skeps
*P : Park-keeper’s “lodge”
*Q : Old Palace House
R : Rose walk/arcade
*S : Stables
T : Conservatory containing a glass case with two(?) stuffed tigers; later a colony of live budgerigars was added. In the early days (’50s) you could walk round the conservatory containing the glass case of tigers but obviously that stopped once the budgies were installed.
*U : Old walled kitchen garden (I think)
V : Remains of concrete plinth which had supported WWI tank
*W : Huge old walnut tree, which was the only tree kept (in the middle of the field) when the orchard was grubbed out and the resulting field made part of the park
*X : Driveway to Old Palace House
Y : Formal flowerbeds
Z : Thatched shelter

[Note that everything marked * plus Old Palace House garden, lawn, orchard and the rough land was outside the perimeter of Cedars Park as I knew it in the ’50s and ’60s (although the park keepers kept an eye on most of it once Old Palace House was owned by the council).]

Here are a couple of postcard views of Cedars Park from, I think, the early 1950s.

Cedars_c1950_1
This is looking towards the main gate (A) from roughly the point (V) on the plan.

Cedars_c1950_2
This shows the thatched shelter (Z) with the mulberry tree (M) and cedar tree (E) beyond from in front of the follies (F) on the plan.

By the time I knew them, all the areas of Old Palace House and grounds were pretty well unkempt: lawns not cut; shrubs not pruned; orchard trees not cared for; house shut up and damp. We were occasionally allowed access to the Old Palace House grounds on a Sunday afternoon because we knew one of the park keepers who worked something like one Sunday in three. Once or twice we were taken over the house and stables.

OPH_c1935This is the rear of Old Palace House in about 1935. Note the two, possibly three, Tudor window embrasures.

The orchard, full of very old fruit trees, was a delight despite being overgrown with grass and bramble. A handful of times, over a couple of autumns, we were allowed to go in there and help ourselves to whatever fruit we could carry away (usually in rucksacks). The orchard contained just about every imaginable old variety of apple and pear. And the apples were to die for; wonderful varieties that one never sees today, many of which we couldn’t even identify. Obviously there were also things like cherry trees — stripped by the birds early in the season! I think I remember raspberry canes too. And then there was the enormous mature specimen walnut tree (that’s my memory, anyway) which stood in the middle. This walnut tree was the only tree kept when the orchard was grubbed out (in the early 70s?); I have a memory that my mother painted it in wonderful autumn colour, standing majestically alone in what was by then a field belonging to the park. While one deplored the orchard being grubbed out, the trees were so old and neglected that there was realistically little other option.

Also, knowing the park keeper, we sometimes got a look round the hothouses and the conservatory. The latter was always full of colourful plants being grown for civic occasions — calceolarias, coleus and I forget what else. Outside there were cold-frames and I think an area used for bringing on rose bushes, trees etc. Plus the inevitable sheds housing big lawn mowers and other machinery, potting sheds etc. The hothouses were heated by some old coal-fired furnaces, which had to be stoked up last thing at night and would apparently just about last until the morning.

Going back to the park, I loved the Monkey Puzzle Tree, the Cedars, the Mulberry trees; I remember rolling down the bank from the path by the Monkey Puzzle; and with the large number of Horse Chestnut trees it was a great place to hunt for conkers. I never did much like the tigers or the follies. Nevertheless the park was for me a fairly magical place.

As I grew into my teens and beyond I came to much more appreciate the old walls and Old Palace House with its Tudor windows. Indeed I remember drawing the Tudor windows (badly, it has to be said) for Art homework; that would have been 1966 or ’67. And I have the following three, not very good, B&W photographs of Old Palace House from around 1964 (they may have all been taken on the same day) …

OPH rear
This shows the derelict state of the house after only a few years empty. Note the two Tudor windows at centre, plus a possible third, smaller one, to the right.

OPH rear
Another image of the rear of Old Palace House with a surprisingly tidy looking lawn. This must have been taken by my father as the young teenager (right middle-ground) is me; note also a small dog.

OPH front
And here is the front of Old Palace House, taken from the front lawn.

I also remember Theobalds Lane, between Cedars Park and Crossbrook Street (so the part off the right of the map) from the mid-1950s; it really was a country lane then. The land to the south was covered in glasshouses, which from memory grew tomatoes and cucumbers — as did a lot of the Lea Valley. The land on the north side had some glasshouses but also a couple of orchards, where I remember my mother buying apples in the autumn — that might even have been before I started school, so 1955 at latest. This was all demolished and grubbed out somewhere in the late ’50s and the housing estate built — and completed long before I went to the Grammar School in 1962 and possibly before Theobalds Grove Station reopened in November(?) 1959.

I’ll write more if I come across any more photographs.

Oddity of the Week: Kew Gardens

The Royal Botanic Gardens at Kew (aka. Kew Gardens) has been in existence since 1759 so it isn’t surprising it has a few little eccentricities.
The Gardens has its own police force, which with 17 staff and one vehicle is one of the smallest police forces in the world.
Turner’s Oak was planted in 1798 but was feared destroyed in the great storm of October 1987. However it was discovered that the tree had been lifted by the storm and dropped back down in place; this loosened the soil round the roots and gave the tree a new lease of life. As a result a new technique for treating old trees has been developed.


The Palm House is home to the world’s largest pot plant, an enormous Jurassic cycad, Encephalartos altensteinii, collected from the wild in the 1770s. It has a four metre wide trunk and is repotted roughly every 20 years.

Kew is also home to the smallest royal palace in the country, Kew Palace, which is more the size of a manor house than a palace. The palace (also known as the Dutch House) was reopened to the public in 2006 following a 10 year restoration.
From 7 things you never knew about Kew Gardens.

Oddity of the Week: Myddleton Passage

Myddelton Passage is a quiet road near Sadler’s Wells Theatre in London EC1. Initially a narrow footpath, the street was widened in the early 19th century as a result of nearby development, but despite this expansion it was considered to be a dark and dangerous alley throughout the Victorian era; a reputation making it notorious enough to feature in George Gissing’s 1889 novel, The Nether World.
Today you can walk along Myddelton Passage in the evening without fearing for your life. But look more closely at the wall running along its southern edge and you’ll see a hint of its shadier Victorian past.


Carved into the brickwork of the wall is a large collection of seemingly random numbers. They were mostly carved around the mid- to late-19th century by an array of police officers and each number represents the respective bobby’s collar number. Most of the numbers feature a a letter ‘G’ linking them to ‘Finsbury Division’; the team who operated out of the former King’s Cross police station.
Quite why so many Victorian coppers chose to create this swathe of graffiti in this particular location remains something of a mystery.
From Cabbie’s Curios: The Policemen’s Wall

Coming up in December

December is, of course, the month of Christmas and consequently that takes over most events etc. So this month’s list is rather abbreviated.
1 December
On this day in 1934 author Anthony Powell and Lady Violet Pakenham were married at All Saints, Ennismore Gardens, Knightsbridge (below).


12 December
1889 saw the death, in Venice, of poet Robert Browning on the day his last work Asolando was published.
21 December
Winter Solstice. That dark day when we in the Northern Hemisphere have the fewest hours of daylight. This day is also celebrated as the festival of Yule in many pagan traditions when the year turns and the days begin to lengthen again towards Spring.
24 December
Christmas Eve is traditionally the day for celebratory meals and the exchange of presents in many European countries. In the UK it is, of course, the final mad dash up to Christmas Day.
25 December
Christmas Day. Hodie Christus natus est. Today we have a very commercial and secularised Christmas Day whereas in much earlier times it was one of the few holidays when peasants were not expected to work but to attend church, feast and make merry (if they could afford to). There are many Christmas Day traditions around the country, so have a search for what’s happening near you.
26 December
Boxing Day and the Feast of St Stephen. Boxing Day is traditionally the day when servants and tradespeople would receive gifts (a “Christmas box”) from their bosses or employers. Although this custom has generally now died out there are many community events, both traditional and modern, on Boxing Day which often raise money for charity. The day is a public holiday in the UK and many other countries, a big day in the sporting calendar and also marks the start of the winter sales. Again seek out your local traditional events which may include Morris dancing or customs such as the Greatham Sword Dance.

31 December
New Years Eve, the last day of the old year, is another day on which there are many traditional customs as well as the usual social gatherings to see out the old year and welcome the new. Once more look out for your local customs like the Allendale Tar Barrel Ceremony. This is also one of the days on which we should be wassailing our apple trees and raising a glass to both their fruitfulness and general prosperity in the coming year.

Ancestors and Mussels

Yesterday we had a day out hunting my ancestors — my father’s direct line — in Kent. And what a splendid day, despite not making any new discoveries.
We trotted off from home about 7am and arrived in Goudhurst about 9.30; just in time for coffee and apple cake.
Having been refreshed we pottered on to Benenden from where, if the connections I think are there are right, my family lives for several generations in the early 18th century and probably earlier. Benenden is such a gorgeous village with houses and the church round a large village green which doubles as the cricket ground — just as it should be.


Benenden Church

Then onward the few miles to Rolvenden, where I had higher hopes of finding evidence. What we found first of all was a small farmers’ market in the church. Yes, in the church. Excellent. This is how churches should be used; the more they are used the less they will be vandalised and the less they need to be locked. We were needless to say beguiled and stocked up from a lady selling mostly smoked meats etc., including some Oak Smoked Mussels. We also succumbed to some bread, tomatoes and a tub of fresh Lemon & Coriander Pesto.

Rolvenden Farmers’ Market

Following this and a look at the interior of the church we adjourned to The Bull for an excellent pub lunch and a pint. Staggering out we looked around the churchyard without luck, as almost every headstone was unreadable. But as we were leaving I did identify the house where my great-grandfather (Stephen Marshall, born 1849) was born and brought up.

Great-Grandfather’s birthplace in Rolvenden

Next we diverted to Smallhythe where I suspected a connection; and indeed we found a Marshall grave but of a later generation. Smallhythe is delightfully non-existent: about six houses, a vineyard, an early 16th century brick church and Ellen Terry the actress’s amazing Tudor house (now in the care of the National Trust) which was sadly not open. This is a far cry from the days of Henry VIII when he River Rother here was a wide estuary and the local industry was shipbuilding. All that ceased when the river changed course following the great storms of the late 16th century.

Samuel Austen (GGG-Grandfather) grave at Tenterden

Next on to Tenterden where we managed to find the grave of one Samuel Austen who is one of my ggg-grandfathers who died in 1838. Tenterden is full of Austens, and Jane Austen’s family originate here. Luckily the monuments in Tenterden churchyard have all been recorded as we would have been hard pressed to read the entirety of the headstone.
After a look in the church we were all running out of steam, so a quick drive on to Biddenden in the hope of easier parking and afternoon tea — both achieved. Following tea and cake we were disappointed to find the church locked; the only locked church of the six we tried during the day.
Leaving Biddenden we drove through Sissinghurst and retraced our steps to Goudhurst for a look at the church there and another pint. At this point there was a sudden realisation it was 6pm and we had a 2+ hour drive home round the M25.
OK, I was disappointed not to find obvious evidence to connect my ggg-grandfather Marshall further back, but that was really quite a long shot. It was also disappointing to find a locked church and nowhere selling Kentish apples or plums. But overall an excellent, and very tiring, day.
So now, today, we have a problem. What to do with those Oak Smoked Mussels and the pesto? Thoughtfully I procured a small pack of large prawns at the supermarket this morning (do not ask how we achieved the supermarket before 10.30 this morning!). So this evening I did one of my quick pasta dishes. 150g each of mussels and prawns makes a good feast for two, thus:
1. Cook some pasta; when cooked drain it and keep it warm.
2. Sweat some finely chopped onion and garlic in a little oil until translucent.
3. Add the mussels and prawns and cook for 2-3 minutes.
4. Add the pesto, stir together and cook for another minute or two.
5. Then add the pasta, stir to mix and coat the pasta and cook for a couple of minutes to ensure everything is hot through.
6. Serve and enjoy with a bottle of white wine.
And boy, was it good! The smoked mussels were to die for. As Noreen observed “I’ve eaten much worse in restaurants”.
Cheers, to the ancestors! We’ve come a long way since their days as farm labourers before 1850.

Oddity of the Week

The view of the dome of London’s St Paul’s Cathedral from Richmond Hill, some 10 miles distant, is protected by legislation. As Diamond Geezer, visiting Richmond Hill, reports:

A protected line of sight exists to the northeast, with a narrow gap cut through Sidmouth Wood in the precise direction of St Paul’s. And this invisible beam from Richmond exerts considerable influence on planning policy in the City ten miles distant. Buildings along the viewing corridor must not interfere with this view of the cathedral, so there are no tall office blocks or skyscrapers either in front or behind within a margin of two dome widths. Richmond’s protected vista is the precise reason why the Cheesegrater retreats to a triangular point, and why Liverpool Street station is as yet undefiled by highrise development.

Lines on Maps

Yesterday I came across this map on Twitter …

africa

It shows Africa with its national boundaries (black lines) as they were in 1959 and (shaded) the continent’s division into ethnic/linguistic areas — ie. basically tribal areas.
Note just how many of the national boundaries are (a) straight lines and/or (b) cut straight across tribal areas. Every country contains multiple tribal/ethnic/linguistic areas.
Yet, we expect these peoples to be able to get on with each other as nations and embrace our democratic traditions. And we’re surprised when they can’t!
Is it any wonder they can’t get on, there is continual civil war and countries wanting to break themselves asunder. It is basically all the result of us, white man, drawing “arbitrary” lines on maps.