Category Archives: food+drink

Weekly Photograph

Saturday was the Anthony Powell Society quarterly London Pub Meet at the Audley in Mount Street, just off Park Lane. Although attended by fewer than usual we had a jolly time with the some fun and eclectic discussion accompanied by a few beers and some food. And it is the food which brings this week’s photograph for we discovered one of our number about to demolish his, rather dilapidated, chapeau.

Click the image for a larger viewPie
Well I’ll Eat My Hat
London; November 2014

Contrary to initial appearances this crust was the topping for a Venison Pie, which I was assured was excellent.
This image appears by courtesy of one Robin Bynoe, who challenged me to make it my weekly photograph.

Oddity of the Week: Coffee Grinding

The coffee plant is native to Ethiopia, but the first evidence of coffee beans being turned into a beverage comes from fifteenth-century Yemen. The fashion for this black, bitter drink spread across the Middle East and the Mediterranean, reaching Europe in the late sixteenth century. Although hand-operated spice mills had been in use since the 1400s, coffee beans continued to be ground using the more basic technology of mortar and pestle, or by millstones. Even as late as 1620, when the Pilgrim Fathers sailed for America on the Mayflower, all they brought with them for grinding coffee was an adapted mortar-and-pestle device.
In the 1660s a certain Nicholas Book, ‘living at the Sign of the Frying Pan in St Tulies Street’ in London, publicized himself as the only man known to make mills that could grind coffee to powder, but he was not necessarily the inventor of the machine he manufactured. The first US patent for a coffee grinder was issued in 1798 to Thomas Bruff of Maryland, who, when he was not grinding coffee, was Thomas Jefferson’s dentist.
From William Hartston; The Things that Nobody Knows: 501 Mysteries of Life, the Universe and Everything; Atlantic Books; 2011

Oddity of the Week

Rocky Mountain Oysters: bull or ram testicles boiled then sliced into ovals and fried. The oysters are served with a spicy sauce. Other euphemisms include barnyard jewels, cowboy caviar, fry, swinging beef and Montana tendergroin. Clifton in Montana holds an annual Testicle Festival, serving up over 2 tons of bull’s balls to 15,000 visitors. In France testicles are served as animelles, while in Greece kokoretsi is a stew involving a variety of offal, including testicles.
From: Ian Crofton; Brewer’s Cabinet of Curiosities

Ancestors and Mussels

Yesterday we had a day out hunting my ancestors — my father’s direct line — in Kent. And what a splendid day, despite not making any new discoveries.
We trotted off from home about 7am and arrived in Goudhurst about 9.30; just in time for coffee and apple cake.
Having been refreshed we pottered on to Benenden from where, if the connections I think are there are right, my family lives for several generations in the early 18th century and probably earlier. Benenden is such a gorgeous village with houses and the church round a large village green which doubles as the cricket ground — just as it should be.


Benenden Church

Then onward the few miles to Rolvenden, where I had higher hopes of finding evidence. What we found first of all was a small farmers’ market in the church. Yes, in the church. Excellent. This is how churches should be used; the more they are used the less they will be vandalised and the less they need to be locked. We were needless to say beguiled and stocked up from a lady selling mostly smoked meats etc., including some Oak Smoked Mussels. We also succumbed to some bread, tomatoes and a tub of fresh Lemon & Coriander Pesto.

Rolvenden Farmers’ Market

Following this and a look at the interior of the church we adjourned to The Bull for an excellent pub lunch and a pint. Staggering out we looked around the churchyard without luck, as almost every headstone was unreadable. But as we were leaving I did identify the house where my great-grandfather (Stephen Marshall, born 1849) was born and brought up.

Great-Grandfather’s birthplace in Rolvenden

Next we diverted to Smallhythe where I suspected a connection; and indeed we found a Marshall grave but of a later generation. Smallhythe is delightfully non-existent: about six houses, a vineyard, an early 16th century brick church and Ellen Terry the actress’s amazing Tudor house (now in the care of the National Trust) which was sadly not open. This is a far cry from the days of Henry VIII when he River Rother here was a wide estuary and the local industry was shipbuilding. All that ceased when the river changed course following the great storms of the late 16th century.

Samuel Austen (GGG-Grandfather) grave at Tenterden

Next on to Tenterden where we managed to find the grave of one Samuel Austen who is one of my ggg-grandfathers who died in 1838. Tenterden is full of Austens, and Jane Austen’s family originate here. Luckily the monuments in Tenterden churchyard have all been recorded as we would have been hard pressed to read the entirety of the headstone.
After a look in the church we were all running out of steam, so a quick drive on to Biddenden in the hope of easier parking and afternoon tea — both achieved. Following tea and cake we were disappointed to find the church locked; the only locked church of the six we tried during the day.
Leaving Biddenden we drove through Sissinghurst and retraced our steps to Goudhurst for a look at the church there and another pint. At this point there was a sudden realisation it was 6pm and we had a 2+ hour drive home round the M25.
OK, I was disappointed not to find obvious evidence to connect my ggg-grandfather Marshall further back, but that was really quite a long shot. It was also disappointing to find a locked church and nowhere selling Kentish apples or plums. But overall an excellent, and very tiring, day.
So now, today, we have a problem. What to do with those Oak Smoked Mussels and the pesto? Thoughtfully I procured a small pack of large prawns at the supermarket this morning (do not ask how we achieved the supermarket before 10.30 this morning!). So this evening I did one of my quick pasta dishes. 150g each of mussels and prawns makes a good feast for two, thus:
1. Cook some pasta; when cooked drain it and keep it warm.
2. Sweat some finely chopped onion and garlic in a little oil until translucent.
3. Add the mussels and prawns and cook for 2-3 minutes.
4. Add the pesto, stir together and cook for another minute or two.
5. Then add the pasta, stir to mix and coat the pasta and cook for a couple of minutes to ensure everything is hot through.
6. Serve and enjoy with a bottle of white wine.
And boy, was it good! The smoked mussels were to die for. As Noreen observed “I’ve eaten much worse in restaurants”.
Cheers, to the ancestors! We’ve come a long way since their days as farm labourers before 1850.

Coming up in September

Some of the events and traditions coming up during September. Everyone’s back from holiday (and in days of yore the harvest is almost done) so there is more happening this month.
1 September
On this day in 1914 the Passenger Pigeon become extinct when Martha, thought to be the world’s last passenger pigeon, died at Cincinnati Zoo.
3 September
Outbreak of World War II in 1939 when the UK declared war on Germany.
6 to 21 September
Scottish Food and Drink Fortnight. Discover and celebrate Scotland’s culinary heritage. No, not just whiskey and haggis, but a great deal more besides. There’s lots of information at www.scottishfoodanddrinkfortnight.co.uk.
9 September
This day in 1839 Sir John Herschel (son of astronomer William Herschel, discoverer of Uranus) made the first photograph on a glass plate. He made many other contributions to photography, astronomy and botany.
11 to 14 September
Heritage Open Days. Four days to explore more of England’s beautiful architecture when over 4000 buildings that are usually closed or charge for admission will open their doors free. Find more information at www.heritageopendays.org.uk.


15 to 21 September
National Cupcake Week. Many of my friends seem to be cakeophiles, so they’re going to love National Cup Cake Week — a chance to show off your baking skills and eat cake. What’s not to like? More over at www.nationalcupcakeweek.co.uk.
19 to 22 September
Great British Beach Clean. Organised by the Marine Conservation Society this is an opportunity to look after your local beach by helping clean it up. Find an event near you at www.mcsuk.org/beachwatch/events.
21 September
Autumnal Equinox. One of two days a year when we get exactly 12 hours of day and 12 hours of night, the Autumn Equinox marks the passage from summer to the dark days of winter.
22 September to 23 October
Seed Gathering Season. Through this autumn festival The Tree Council aims to inspire everyone, particularly school children and families, to gather seeds, fruits and nuts and grow the trees of the future. More information and events over at www.treecouncil.org.uk/Take-Part/seed-gathering-season.

29 September
Michaelmas, the feast of Saint Michael the Archangel. Falling as it does near the equinox, it is associated in the northern hemisphere with the beginning of autumn and the shortening of days. In medieval England Michaelmas marked the ending and beginning of the husbandman’s year and was one of the English quarter days. The traditional food on this day was goose, nicely fattened on the grain it had gleaned amongst the fields of stubble.

Oddity of the Week: Blue Honey

French beekeepers were recently shocked when their bees started producing thick, blue and green honey.
After investigating, they discovered their bees were feeding on the colourful shells of M&Ms — a Mars processing plant was located just 4 km away.
The Mars waste-processing plant has now solved the problem and are cleaning any outdoor or uncovered containers that M&M waste was stored in, so it’s unlikely you’ll see the blue honey on the market any time soon.


As Reuters reports, the unsellable honey is a new issue for the beekeepers, who are already struggling with high bee mortality rates and dwindling honey supplies.
From http://sciencealert.com.au/news/20142405-25561.html

Tasse de Dégustation

A couple of months ago I acquired from a friend four tastevin (or tasse de dégustation, tasse du vin, wine cups, depending on your predilection). My friend had bought them in northern France and cleaned them up before passing them on to me in exchange for a few drinking tokens.

tasse1

crestThey are all of the same standard design with bowls 75mm in diameter and have the crest of Bouchard Aîné & Fils, a recognised Beaune wine house. All appear to be white metal plating over a yellow metal base, the latter showing through where the white plating is rubbed. The base metal is therefore likely to be brass (or possibly some form of pewter).
One of the four is clearly silver plated as it has a small stamp “METAL ARGENTE” (the French indication of silver plate) on the bowl near the handle. Two are stamped just “METAL”. The fourth has a tiny (2mm) square maker’s mark of M and P with what appears to be an upward pointing arrow between the letters — I have not been able to satisfactorily identify this maker. As far as I can see there are no other marks. The two “METAL” ones have a very slightly greyer/duller lustre than the other two, which makes me suspect they are maybe tin plated, the brighter two both being silver — but that is pure speculation on my part.
MetalArgente    Metal1
MP

This fourth, with the maker’s mark, is noticeably the most worn, with more yellow metal showing through, so it looks as if it may have been someone’s favourite. The stamping of the crest is also of a slightly better quality, so this one could be older.
Looking further at the wear on the handle of this one with a maker’s mark, two further things become apparent: (a) there is a slight wear mark where the tasse would have been worn on string/ribbon round a sommelier’s neck (in fact all four have this) and (b) the wear on the crest suggests that the sommelier was right handed.
Nonetheless I doubt any of them is of any significant age.
I have no expectation that they are of any useful monetary value but nonetheless I’m interested to work out their provenance. I have written to Bouchard Aîné & Fils asking if they can date them or provide other information, but I have so far not received a reply.
If anyone can shed further light on them, then I would love to hear from you.
Meanwhile they are nice little things to have!

Special Salmon

Another culinary triumph from our kitchens. At first sight it sounds fairly ordinary, but the little touches made it really yummy …
Zen Salmon Wellington
This serves two, generously.
You need:
2 100g salmon fillets
4 scallops (with coral)
1 pack chilled puff pastry
juice ½ lemon
butter
fresh black pepper and dill herb (optional)
egg or milk to glaze


What you do:
1. Pre-heat the oven to 200°C (with fan, 220°C if no fan) and line a baking sheet with some baking parchment.
2. Halve the pastry and roll out each piece to make an oblong about 10×12″.
3. Rinse the salmon fillets and scallops.
4. If the salmon fillets have a long thin edge, cut half this off and just fold it over so the piece is smaller and of more even thickness.
5. Place a fillet on each piece of pastry, and two scallops on each fillet.
Top each with a good knob of butter and a teaspoon of lemon juice; plus if you wish pepper and dill.
6. Dampen the edges of the pastry with more lemon juice, fold over and crimp the edges sealed.
7. Cut a couple of slashes in the top of each wellington and glaze with egg or milk.
8. Bake for about 30 minutes.
9. Serve with salad or lightly steamed veg — we had plain steamed English asparagus with a knob of butter.
It is simple. But the lemon juice is what makes this, adding an unusual tang to the pastry. And the scallops add that touch of luxury.

Recipe: Roast Vegetable with Parmesan

Another dead easy winner from our kitchen. You can use this as a vegetarian main meal (as we have just done) or adapt it as a dish (or two) of a main course. Like most of what I do this is easy, quick, adaptable — and colourful! It can even be used to use up tired vegetables: it doesn’t matter if peppers or tomatoes are over ripe!
Roast Vegetables with Parmesan Cheese


You will need:
1 large baking potato (or equivalent) per person
A selection of vegetables; choose from:
— 2-3 shallots or a small onion per person
— 2 medium or 6 cherry tomatoes per person
— peppers
— aubergine
— courgettes
— fennel
— mushrooms
Several cloves of garlic (optional)
Bunch fresh herbs (optional)
Black pepper
Olive oil
This is what you do:

  1. Pre-heat the oven to 160-170°C with the fan.
  2. Wash and cut the potatoes into good sized pieces (about half the size of hen’s egg works OK) and steam them until just done.
  3. While the potatoes are cooking, prepare the vegetables by cutting them into pieces of the same sort of size as the potatoes. If you can use small shallot style onions these can stay whole, otherwise quarter larger onions. Leave cherry tomatoes whole or quarter larger ones lengthwise. Cut other vegetables into suitable pieces. Put all the veg in a large mixing bowl.
  4. Roughly chop the garlic and herbs and add to the veg.
  5. When the potatoes are just cooked, drain them and transfer to another mixing bowl, season with fresh black pepper and drizzle over some olive oil. Toss well so all the pieces are coated in oil.
  6. Transfer the potatoes to a baking sheet and arrange in an even layer before putting them in the oven.
  7. Now season the veg with black pepper and olive oil, tossing it to coat all the pieces and spread out on a baking sheet (or several). Put this in the oven too.
  8. Pour yourself a drink and go away for at least 30 minutes.
  9. The veg and potatoes should be nicely roasted after 30-40 minutes and can be taken to the table in serving dishes — mix everything together in a large tureen if you like!
  10. Serve with flakes of parmesan and a glass of wine.

Notes

  1. Root vegetables work OK too, but make a heavier meal and may take longer to cook unless treated like potatoes. Brussels spouts and leeks would work too.
  2. You can also use softer, more delicate vegetables like asparagus, but this will need careful handling and separate cooking as it will not need as long in the oven.
  3. Don’t have any parmesan? A good grated cheddar works well too.