Category Archives: food+drink

Rustic Fruit Tart

Something else I cooked this weekend was what I’ve called Rustic Fruit Tart. This was mainly because I’d had some blueberries in the fridge for some days and thought they should be cooked. It’s rustic because it used mostly what I already had to hand and it isn’t designed to look fancy, just taste good. I used rhubarb and blueberries; you could do it with any other combination of fruits you like.

For two 8″ (20cm) tarts this is what I did …

1 packet of commercial pasty (or enough homemade pastry for two 8″/20cm flan tins)
800g fresh Rhubarb
350g fresh Blueberries
2 tbsp Sugar
half wine glass of Fruit Juice

1. Pre-heat the oven to 200C (gas mark 6); use the fan if you have one.
2. Wash and chop the rhubarb and put in a pan with the fruit juce and sugar. You want the end product to be fairly sticky so don’t add too much fruit juice.
3. Cook, with a lid on and stirring occasionally, until well cooked and the rhubarb pieces have broken down.
4. Meanwhile roll out the pastry and line the two flan tins. Prick the base of the pasty cases with a fork so they don’t bubble too much; use baking beads if you have them. Keep any pastry offcuts.
5. Blind bake the pasty cases for 15-20 minutes.
6. Remove from the oven and fill each case with the cooked rhubarb.
7. Scatter plenty of blueberries on top of the rhubarb.
8. Decorate — as badly as you like, after all this us “rustic” tart — the top of the flans using the pastry offcuts and glaze (I used milk and sugar).
9. Now bake for another 15-20 minutes until the pastry decoration is golden and the filling bubbling.
10. Remove from the oven and eat hot or allow to cool in the tins before turning out.
11. Dust with icing sugar (if such is your desire) and devour with clotted cream.

Notes
1. You can use either puff or shortcrust pastry. I used puff which didn’t work well as it puffed too much when blind baked. I’m also lazy and use commercial pastry — well I’m allowed some shortcuts!
2. Individual tartlets would work too, using exactly the same method.
3. I put a piece of baking parchment in the base of each flan tin to ensure the case didn’t stick too badly.

Pork Fillet with Pesto

I can’t believe that I haven’t posted a recipe for … ages and ages. So to make up here are two in one.

This evening I’ve cooked some extremely scrummy Pork Fillet with Pesto. You could use commercially prepared pesto, but I made my own. It’s dead easy, takes minutes to prepare and it tastes wonderful. It is real restaurant/dinner party food! Here’s what you do …

For the Pesto
This makes enough pesto for at least two pork fillets. It can be made a day or two in advance; just store it in the fridge. And of course you could use for anything else where you want pesto.

100g Pinenuts
A bunch of fresh Basil (I used the end of a pot of Basil, including the stems)
A small bunch of fresh Coriander (optional)
A couple of good squirts of Garlic Purée (maybe 2 tbsp)
A glug of good Olive Oil (not too much)
Black Pepper to taste

Put all the ingredients in the food processor. Don’t add too much olive oil; you want the pesto to be fairly stiff, not slishy; you can add more oil if it ends up too stiff. Whizz everything together until you’ve got a chunky paste.

For the Pork
You can prepare the pork fillet a few hours in advance (even the night before, if fridged) as it will improve for marinading in the pesto.

You’ll want one whole Pork Fillet for every two people.

1. Preheat the oven to 200C (gas mark 6); use the fan if you have one.
2. Cut the pork fillet lengthways but not all the way through and open it out. Do this again down each half and fold the edges out again.
3. Put the fillet on a piece of clingfilm on a flat surface and cover with another piece of clingfilm. Now beat the pork out flatter with a steak hammer or rolling pin. You’re aiming to roughly double the width of the pork which should end up no more than 5mm thick.
4. Remove the top layer of clingfilm and cover the pork in a good layer of pesto.
5. Roll the pork along the long edge like a Swiss roll; you may need to tie it with string 2 or 3 times to stop it falling apart.
6. Place the pork roll on an oiled baking sheet.
7. Any pesto left over, or any which oozed out the ends, can be used to coat the outside of the pork.
8. Cover with foil and roast in the middle of the oven for about 30 minutes. Check the pork is done by stabbing with a knife to see if the juices are clear. You can remove the foil for the last 5 minutes to brown.
9. Allow to stand for 5 minutes before serving in slices with potatoes and veg of your choice.

Notes
1. Red pesto should work as well as the more traditional green.
2. If you want to add something extra put a layer of prosciutto on the pork before adding the pesto; or wrap the rolled pork in bacon.
3. If you want to trim the untidy ends from the pork fillet then do so. They can also be beaten out and placed inside the main piece before rolling.
4. The oil in the pesto makes this slightly oily although most of the oil will drain out; the rest keeps the meat nice and succulent.
5. Do not under cook pork; however also take care not to overcook as it can get tough and dry.
6. I served mine with steamed new potatoes and steamed asparagus.

Finally many thanks to Lily on the butchery counter of our local Waitrose for the idea, which I adapted slightly.

Reasons to be Grateful: 24

Experiment, week 24. Continuing the experiment here are this week’s five things which have made me happy or for which I’m grateful.

  1. Sunshine. Yeah, I said it last week and I’ll say it again! This has been such a dismal week, weatherwise, that I’ve really appreciated the few odd spells of sunshine we’ve had.
  2. Lunch with Friends. On Thursday we had a flying visit to Portsmouth to have lunch with some friends and ex-colleagues. (We were going to make a good day out of it and look round Portsmouth Dockyard. But who wants to do that in the pouring rain?) So we settled for just having a most enjoyable lunch at The Chimes. This is the restaurant run by the Hospitality and Catering Department of Portsmouth Highbury College. As Pam, who booked it, said: the food is always excellent but the service can be interesting. And to be fair the service was somewhat hesitant and lacking confidence — but then the students were obviously learning and we all have to start somewhere! As to the food …
  3. Rack of Lamb. … Yep I had a rack of lamb at the The Chimes. And yes, it was excellent. Beautifully cooked; really tender; and full of flavour. All in all the food really couldn’t be faulted; everyone enjoyed it. And it was ridiculously cheap.
  4. Lamb Curry. Lamb again, only this time my own lamb curry early in the week.
  5. Raspberries & Clotted Cream. More food; and eaten at home. We should have been going to dinner with friends last night but Sue was ill. And as we’d promised to take pudding we had a quantity of raspberries and clotted cream to devour for tea! Followed by strawberries for breakfast today. Yum!

Reasons to be Grateful: 21

Experiment, week 21. This week’s five things which have made me happy or for which I’m grateful.

  1. Bacon Pieces. I think I’ve said that whenever we go up to Norwich to see my mother we drop into the nearby Roy’s supermarket. One reason is that they sell 1 kilo packs of smoked bacon offcuts — buy two or three; use one, freeze the rest! I learnt when I worked in a supermarket as a teenager that bacon offcuts were not only cheap but often contained good bacon. And with these if you pick over the packs you can usually get some good ones. We broached a pack of such this week and as well as some scrappy bits (great for risotto, pasta etc.) there were some decent pieces which can be cut however you want. It’s good bacon, and it’s British bacon! We got three main meals for two of that pack: great value at £2.64!
  2. National Archives Online. I continue to be amazed at the records the National Archives have online. Hunting this week I turned up the records for cases heard at the Old Bailey, including James Gambridge (whether my ancestor or another, I don’t know) who was found guilty in 1826 of stealing 17 sheets of glass to the value of 7 shillings. He was lucky to be sentenced to just 3 months incarceration as this was a time when had the value been not a lot greater he would have been deported to Australia or even hanged.
  3. Florentines. As our Easter treat Noreen bought us each a couple of Waitrose’s large Florentines. Yummy!
  4. Marrow Stuffed with Chilli Beef Risotto. This was another Noreen special, she having bought a marrow. Although I can take or leave courgettes, I love marrow. I suggested stuffing it with risotto. So Noreen cooked a nicely chillied (not too hot) risotto of beef mince, stuffed it in the marrow (with the extra around it) and bunged it in the oven for a bit. Out came some soft marrow with a tasty, sticky beef risotto. Most excellent.
  5. Spring Greens. No I don’t mean the cabbage leaves — though I like those too — I mean the garden! Looking out this morning at what one of our Irish friends would call “a soft day” (ie. damp and slightly misty), suddenly everything is green again. Fresh green leaves. Spring!!

Bring on the English asparagus!

Pork Pie Conservation

We’ve noticed that recently delicatessens and like establishments are proudly proclaiming availability of “hand-raised pork pies”. Although we’ve not yet definitively identified the establishment promoting this development, the Melton Mowbray Pork Pie Association are chief suspects. But whoever is responsible we are delighted that there is a movement to conserve the wild pork pie population.

Listography : Cookery Books

Oh dear, I just know I’m going to be in trouble now because Kate’s Listography this week asks us to nominate our top five cookery books.

Cookery Books! I ask you?! Who needs cookery books?

What do you mean? Of course I cook! Bloody well, I’ll have you know! I always have done. At 12-ish (yes, that’s 50 years ago!) I kept house for my father for a week while my mother was in hospital, and he had a 3-course hot meal every evening when he came in from work.

I learnt the basics at my mother’s knee and then honed them as a student. I haven’t looked back since. OK, so I don’t do fancy fancy stuff, or cakes, or clever puddings. I can do them, but I choose not to because I don’t need to or want to. But I do cook good things, from fresh, as you’ll see from the recipes I’ve posted here. (Type recipe in the search box on the right to get a list.)

But I hardly ever use cookery books. We have a couple of shelves of them and there are only two I use with any regularity at all (ie. about twice a year).

The first is Florence Greenberg, Jewish Cooking. And no, not because I’m Jewish, because I’m not. I bought the Penguin paperback of this when I was a post-grad student because it looked useful. And it is. Despite not being illustrated it is good on the basics and has some superb recipes. OK so it doesn’t do anything non-Kosher, like pork and offal, but so what? That’s easy: you just adapt recipes.

Thanks to Noreen, who brought this book with her when we got married, the other cookery book I use is the two volume paperback of Farmhouse Cooking by Mary Norwak and Babs Honey. No illustrations and no basics. But lots of good hearty recipes for just about anything you can imagine — as as you’ll know if you look at the recipes hereabouts we are people for good, hearty, wholesome peasant food with a minimum of faffing around.

Beyond these I might skip through the odd book for ideas, but seldom more. And I do also have a folder of recipe ideas. If I have a clue what I want to do but need to brush up on how to do it then I tend to use this new fangled interweb thingy called Google. Almost everything you’ll ever need is online!

There’s only one thing I hate more in the kitchen than the recipe book as bible, and that is scales! Unless you’re making cake, where the correct proportions are critical, learn to do it by eye! Cooking is all about having confidence!

Collop Monday

Thanks to IanVisits for reminding us yesterday that today is Collop Monday. I agree with his suggestion that it should be restored as a festivity.

For those who might have not forgotten about Collop Monday — or more likely have never heard of it — this is the day preceding Shrove Tuesday when the remaining pieces of bacon or pork from the winter store, which would be “life expired” by Easter, were traditionally eaten. It was sort of the feast preceding the feast before Lent.

As Wikipedia says “The British name Collop Monday is after the traditional dish of the day, consisting of slices of leftover meat (collops of bacon) along with eggs”.

So having been reminded of the feast what could we do but … feast! After all one never needs much of an excuse to eat bacon.

We always have a large pack of smoked bacon offcuts in the freezer. The local supermarket near where my mother used to live nearly always has these packs. They’re cheap and usually contain lots of half rashers and/or thick ends of bacon: brilliant bacon but not uniform and nice for supermarket packaging. Who cares?! They’re tremendous for just about anything you want bacon for: there are scraps for quiche or risotto or to use as lardons; rasher-ettes for bacon butties; and chunky bits you can chop up, fry for jumbo bacon butties, for breakfast or, well, just eating. So whenever we’re there we buy a couple of packs.

This evening we cracked open a pack of said bacon offcuts. It contained the usual selection. So we ate our fill of a good English fry-up of bacon, eggs, tomatoes and mushrooms; with lots of bread and butter; and a couple of beers.

What better way to celebrate an old English tradition!

Reasons to be Grateful: 13

Experiment, week 13. This week’s five things which have made me happy or for which I’m grateful.

  1. Green Woodpecker. I’ve always been one for watching the birds — both feathered and primate varieties. One of the feathered type which I’ve always liked but seldom seen is the Green Woodpecker, colloquially know as a Yaffle from its laughing call. I’m lucky as I now see them irregularly but several times a year going through the garden. We had one hunting for food in the snow earlier this week. They’re extremely handsome.
  2. Fresh Snow. I don’t know why, but there is always something slightly romantic about seeing snow fall and fresh, virgin snow on the ground.
  3. Baked Ham. I love home cooked, succulent ham. However I tend to avoid buying gammon joints as these days I consider gammon lacks flavour and has always been over-priced. When I can get one I buy a smoked collar joint. Collar as a cut is greatly under-rated. Collar rashers are larger and for my money much better value than the ubiquitous back bacon. Even better, if you can get it, is a large collar joint; it makes an excellent ham. (Waitrose normally have collar joints but they are mostly too small; you really need one about 1.5 Kilos — that’s the size they should be if the pig has been grown fully.) Noreen has a great way of cooking it in a plain flour and water (huff) pastry case which you discard afterwards. Eaten hot with roast or jacket potatoes, veg of choice and parsley or mushroom sauce it is great comfort food. Or eat it cold with salad, or mash and pickles, or between bread.
  4. Redwings (right) and Fieldfares (below right). These two birds are both members of the thrush family which we don’t see regularly in gardens in the UK. They are birds of open countryside where they gather in mixed flocks. They are winter visitors to the UK and only come to gardens in the hardest of weather. So we’ve had a few around over the last few days and this morning there was a mixed band of at least 60 birds sitting in our silver birch trees. Lovely to see.
  5. Fish & Chips. Yesterday we had the quarterly Anthony Powell Society London pub meet at the Audley in Mayfair. This is always a convivial and informal occasion where we enjoy good beer, good pub food, good company and interesting chat. I try not to eat much fish unless I know it is farmed or sustainably caught, but the Audley’s fish and chips is an exception: it is always good and a popular choice amongst the regulars at the pub meet. More comfort food!

Where's the Biscuit Barrel?

Kate’s Listography this week poses a simple question: What are you five favourite biscuits?

Well, because of my diabetes I’m not really supposed to eat biscuits — but I do! So here are some of my all-time favourites.

Almond Biscotti. Preferably home-made, by me.

Wagon Wheels. But they have to be the original, decent size version of my childhood and not the travesty that we are palmed off with these days.

Any Wafer Biscuit. But better if covered in chocolate! Why are these always the first to disappear from any biscuit selection?

Garibaldi. Yes, those “dead fly” biscuits. I loved them as a kid, especially the slight chewiness of the fruit.

Dark Chocolate Digestives. Well actually almost anything covered in dark chocolate. Milk chocolate will do at a pinch, but dark chocolate is so superior!

Time for tea and biscuits!