Just for a change I bought some (frozen) monkfish this weekend. I’d seen a recipe somewhere and thought we should try the monkfish because, as far as I know, neither of us has ever tried it.

As always, having gleaned an idea or two, I threw the recipe away and made it up as I went along.

Once thawed I marinated the monkfish in a combination of lemon zest & juice, olive oil, black pepper, ½ teaspoon of tandoori spice mix (powder), and some fresh chopped parsley and mint. It sat in this in the fridge for about 3 hours. The fish (and marinade) was transferred to a small metal roasting tin and put in a hot oven to cook for 15-20 minutes (the first half covered with foil).

Served with hot baguette and a tomato & chicory salad. The fish was really lemony and very tasty.

Monkfish used to be dirt cheap – why else would it be an essential in a peasant dish like bouillabaisse? Now it is fairly expensive (but then so is all fish). Nonetheless I might do this again.

You know the drill by now for my pasta dishes (if not see here and here). So this week I give you …

Here’s another simple concoction.

This Peach and Apple Tart is so simple I’m not even going to write a full recipe.

First off, see what you have in the cupboard. As well as a block of puff pastry we had some frozen cooking apple and a big jar of peaches in brandy. But you could use almost any fruit (or roast(?) veg if you want a savoury version).

By now you know how to make a pastry case and blind bake it. If not, see this BBC Food video; it works for shortcrust and puff pastry. I prefer to use bought puff pastry – as I did in this case – but I will make shortcrust (see here). I don’t worry about my results looking as pristine as in the video – this is neither a restaurant nor a competition!

When I’d got my blind-baked pastry case, I put a layer of apple in the bottom and topped it with the peach halves. There was some of the light syrup left from the peaches, so I drizzled a couple of teaspoons of this on the apple in the gaps between the peaches. I finished off with a few fragments of walnut and glazed the edges of the pastry with some more of the syrup.

This was then baked for about 30 minutes, covered with foil for the last 15 minutes to stop the pastry over browning. When removed from the oven I immediately glazed the peaches and pastry again with the syrup, and left it too cool before removing from the tin.

Had I had any I would have used either glacé cherries or candied peel instead of the walnuts. But the idea here is to use what you happen to have – and if necessary be able to rustle something up quickly.

Here’s another experiment from last weekend. And one which turned out as brilliantly as I had hoped.

Superior Cheese Scones

Makes about 12 small or 6 large
Prep Time: about 15 minutes
Cooking Time: about 25 minutes

Ingredients

280g Self-Raising Flour
50g Butter
150g Cheddar Cheese, grated; plus a bit extra for topping
160ml Milk
1 tsp Baking Powder (yes as well as the SR flour)
Pinch or two of Salt (not too much as the cheese is salty)
1 tbsp fresh ground Black Pepper
2 tbsp Tomato Paste
1 tbsp Garlic Paste
1 Egg, beaten (for glazing)

Method

1. Preheat the oven to 200/fan 180/gas 5, and line a baking tray with parchment.
2. Sieve the flour and baking powder into a mixing bowl, with the salt.
3. Add the butter and rub in to combine to breadcrumb consistency.
4. Add the cheese and black pepper and mix thoroughly.
5. Add the tomato paste and garlic paste, followed by the milk a little at a time, to get a soft, pliable but not sticky dough. Go carefully with the milk as you may not need it all; or you may need a splash more.
6. On a floured surface roll out the dough to about 1″ (2.5cm) thick.
7. Use a pastry cutter to cut out circles and place them on the baking sheet, being sure to leave a gap between each one.
   Carefully reform any trimmings as they’ll likely make 1 or 2 more scones.
8. Brush the scones with the egg, and top with a sprinkle of cheese.
9. Bake for about 25 minutes, until risen and golden.
10. Allow to cool on a wire rack (if they last that long!).

Notes

1. When cut the scones should be light and moist; and they’ll be a golden orange colour from the tomato.
2. Enjoy them with butter, or cheese, or … <well your choice>.
3. We used Applewood cheese, which came through really well and gave the scones a lovely slightly smoked flavour, with a subtle background of tomato and garlic.
4. If you double up the mixture, you’ll still only need one egg.
5. I might try this with some olives instead of the tomato and garlic.

We love asparagus. But we don’t like having things flown halfway round the world if avoidable. So we normally only have British asparagus when it’s in season from April to June. And anyway British asparagus is far superior in terms of flavour, although it needs to be used as fresh as possible. Here are three tips.

Size. Don’t be afraid to buy thin asparagus spears – often called sprue. They’re going to be more tender, and often better flavoured, than the more ubiquitous tree trunks.

Trimming. You need to remove the bottom part of the asparagus spear as it will be relatively woody. Don’t use a knife and guess where to cut. Hold the spear at the bottom and about two-thirds of the way up and bend it sharply towards you. The bottom quarter or third will break off naturally leaving the most luscious top to eat. If you’re making vegetable stock, throw the woody base of the spears in that; otherwise compost them.

Cooking. This is a tip I recently spotted in a food magazine. So you’re cooking a pasta dish and want asparagus to go in it. The easiest way to cook the asparagus is to cut into 2-3cm lengths and add it to the cooking pasta about 2 minutes before the pasta is done. Then when the pasta is cooked you can spoon pasta and asparagus straight into the sauce (along with that all important spoonful of pasta water).

Last week we had a surplus of small, soft, tomatoes and a couple of older peppers. So I used them with some onion and garlic to make what amounted to vegetable jam, only without any added sugar. It is dead easy.

Quarter any normal size tomatoes, and skin them if you can be bothered. Chop the pepper into 2cm pieces. Sweat a chopped onion and some garlic (as much as you like) in a tablespoon of olive oil until going translucent. Add the tomatoes and pepper. (You could add any other veg, like courgette, fennel, aubergine. I’d avoid mushrooms as they’ll make the mixture a less appetising dark colour.) Season with fresh ground black pepper, add some chopped herbs and half a glass of cooking brandy. Leave to simmer gently until the tomatoes are breaking down and everything is reducing – probably about 30 minutes. When cooked, allow to cool before putting it in the fridge.

This will keep 2-3 days in the fridge; or you could eat it hot, like ratatouille.

I used ours to make a tart. Drain any excess liquid from the tomato mix. Put the mix in a blind-baked tart case and dot with dollops of Boursin cheese (or any cheese of your choice). Ours made a 20cm square flan tin and used just over half a Boursin. Bake for 20-30 minutes in an oven at about 200°C until golden; cover with foil if necessary as the Boursin tends to blacken easily. The tart is best enjoyed warm or cold, with some green salad and a glass of light white wine.

Yep, I reckon that over the last 15 or so years I’ve written at least 80 posts about my exploits in the kitchen. From now on I intend to number them, as they should include hints, tips and the like beyond just straight recipes. As an example here is one of the recent experiments.

Lamb’s Kidneys with Linguini.

This was a further incarnation of my infinitely variable (see for instance here and here). I’m not going to give you the full method; you know how to cook my pasta recipes by now (if not, see the links above)!

On this occasion I used a handful of lamb’s kidneys, cut into 5-10mm slices, and added cherry tomatoes, mushrooms and some asparagus (cut into 2-3cm pieces). It was the usual method, although you’ll need to ensure the kidneys go early in the pan and are well on the way to being cooked through before adding the veg.

It went down well with a bottle of robust red wine.

Here’s another variation on an old and infinitely variable theme which we did yesterday: poussins and mixed vegetable traybake. It went like this …

Poussin & Veg Traybake

Serves: 4 (or 2 with plenty left for cold)
Prep: 20 mins
Cook: 60 mins

We used …

• 3 500g poussins
• 750g small potatoes, cut into ping-pong ball size pieces, skin on
• 2 medium onions, quartered lengthways
• garlic, as much as you like, roughly chopped (optional)
• 200g cherry tomatoes, left whole
• 8-10 large mushrooms, halved
• aubergine, cut into about 12 pieces
• 2 peppers, each cut into 8 pieces
• big bunch of asparagus, in 6-8cm pieces
• olive oil
• black pepper

We did …

1. Pre-heat the oven to 200°/fan 180°/gas 6.
2. Steam the potatoes for about 10 minutes until part cooked.
3. Meanwhile butcher the poussins: with heavy scissors cut down each side of the spine and remove it; flatten the bird and cut along the breast to get half birds piece.
4. Put the poussins (including the spines and any trimmings) in a roasting tin along with the garlic and part cooked potatoes. Toss in 3 tbsp olive oil and a good grind of black pepper, cover with foil, and bake for about 20-25 minutes.
5. Now prep the remaining veg, put in a large plastic bag (or a mixing bowl) and toss in another 2-3 tbsp olive oil.
6. After 20-25 minutes, remove the roasting tin from the oven, add the vegetables and another good grind of black pepper; and mix well. (At this stage you can optionally add the juice & zest of a lemon and springs of fresh thyme.)
7. Return to the oven, without foil, and bake for a further 30-40 minutes until the veg and chicken are cooked through.
8. Serve with a glass (or several) of dry white wine.

Notes …

1. The poussin spines (and trimmings) will add to the stock, which is worth keeping and freezing.
2. Any leftovers make a good cold meal the following day, or if there isn’t enough for that take the meat from the bones (including the spines!) and use for risotto.
3. Cold roast veg makes a good sandwich filling.
4. The lemon and thyme are optional and could be replaced with a glass of white wine, or a slug of brandy or sherry, according to taste. Omitting them altogether (as we did on this occasion) still works well!

We’re on a food theme at the moment. Actually this is fairly normal for us over Easter; it seems to be a time for experimenting weith good gfood.

Waitrose’s Food magazine a while back had a recipe of Herby Crab & Tomato Spaghetti. I thought it looked worth trying if one wanted to push the boat out a bit and buy crab – although to be honest it isn’t that expensive.

As Waitrose don’t seem to put all their recipes online, here first is the original recipe.

Herby Crab & Tomato Spaghetti

Serves 2
Prepare 10 minutes
Cook 15 minutes

Ingredients
2 tbsp dried breadcrumbs
2 tbsp olive oil
180g dried spaghetti
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 red chilli, deseeded and finely chopped
12 cherry vine tomatoes, quartered
100g “Seafood & Eat It” Fifty Fifty Crab
¼x 20g pack tarragon, leaves only, roughly chopped
1 lemon, zest and juice

Method
1. Toast the breadcrumbs in 1 tbsp oil in a large frying pan over a medium-high heat until golden brown (about 3-4 minutes). Transfer to a plate. Bring a large pan of salted water to a rolling boil, then cook the spaghetti according to pack instructions.
2. Meanwhile, put the remaining 1 tbsp oil in the frying pan over a medium-high heat. Add the garlic and chilli; cook for 2 minutes until fragrant. Add the tomatoes and cook for 5 minutes. Scoop the brown crabmeat into the pan. Transfer the pasta and 2 ladles of its cooking water to the pan. Toss vigorously for 1-2 minutes, until well coated. Add the white crab, tarragon, lemon juice and ½ the zest. Season, mix, then divide between warm plates. Top with the remaining zest and the breadcrumbs.

Well OK. That didn’t quite work for us so, as usual, I adapted it! This is what I did …

Linguine with Crab, Tomato & Herbs

Ingredients
2 tbsp olive oil
165g dried linguine
2 large shallots, finely chopped
5 cloves garlic, finely chopped
½ tsp dried chilli flakes
16 cherry tomatoes, left whole
2 tbsp tomato paste
2x 100g tubs white crabmeat
¼x 20g pack tarragon, leaves only, left whole
juice & zest of a lemon
black pepper

Method

1. Cook the linguine according to pack instructions.
2. Sweat the onion, garlic and chilli in a pan with the olive oil until going translucent (about 2-3 minutes).
3. Add the tomatoes and cook for another couple of minutes.
4. Add the crabmeat, followed by the drained pasta and 2 ladles of its cooking water. Toss/mix vigorously for a minute or so, until well coated.
5. Now add the tomato paste, tarragon and lemon. Season with black pepper, mix well and warm through for another 1-2 minutes.
6. Divide between two plates and enjoy with a glass of robust white wine.

Notes

• I can’t be doing with faffing around with breadcrumbs – not just for the two of us anyway.
• We used linguine, as it was to hand; I actually prefer it to spaghetti.
• Before this version, we’d tried using 50/50 brown & white crabmeat, but it didn’t quite work for us.
• 200g crabmeat is probably a bit too much, but 100g feels a bit too little as a single course (or the first of just two).
• Chilli flakes are fine; you want only a hint of chilli in the background. Our alternative would have been to excavate a Scotch Bonnet from the freezer and even a small one may have been too much.
• If you quarter the cherry tomatoes and cook them for 5 minutes they’ll just go to mush. We prefer them whole and not falling apart.
• In our view this needed some onion; and no shortage of garlic.

My version worked very well indeed. It was truly delicious. The tarragon and lemon came through nicely without being overpowering and there was just a hint of chilli. We accompanied it with a bottle of robust Italian Falanghina.

Oh, and no picture – you all know what a bowl of pasta looks like!