Recipe : Ruddy Duck

Today is our umpty-nth Wedding Anniversary and rather than go out to eat — we seem to be eating out quite a lot recently anyway — we decided to do something a bit special for dinner this evening. Fillet steak had been suggested, perhaps as Tournedos Rossini. But steak somehow seems so ordinary these days. We were going to the supermarket anyway this morning.

Then very late last night I had a vision. The vision involved a duck. In typical male fashion I thought “duck breasts”. And then I wondered “what can I put with duck breasts?” We neither of us like culinary clichés like duck & orange or duck & cherry, if only because restaurants always serve it too sweet.

And then I though “gooseberries”. I’ve done mackerel & gooseberry before, so I know the acid of the fruit works well with something fatty. Hmmm, yes, that would work. Well of course we have the end of some port too. OK so, Duck with Gooseberry and Port. Yes, that would work well. Bet we can’t get any fresh gooseberries!

[Interlude for sleep]

So this morning off we trot to Waitrose. Before I commit us to duck I wander off and look at the fresh fruit. Yep, as predicted, no gooseberries — well it is a bit late for them. I returned to Noreen who looked quizzical; I had to explain my plot. “Ah yes”, she says, “that sounds good. I’ll see if there are any frozen gooseberries”. She returns empty handed saying all they have is frozen “forest fruits”. Hmph! Then she says “Rhubarb”. I say “Hmmm, not sure about that”. This needs to be tart but I’m not sure rhubarb is the right sort of acid. “Or blackberries?” Yes that’s a much better idea; we’re sure to have a few in the garden and anyway there are some in the freezer. And we know rabbit and blackberry works well.

As a result I give you …

Ruddy Duck
or Duck with Blackberry and Port

Preparation time: 20 minutes (including salad & potatoes)
Cooking Time: 20 minutes


For two of us I used:

  • 2 duck breasts
  • 4 ping-pong ball sized scallions (or equivalent in other onion)
  • 2 handfuls of blackberries
  • 2 cloves of garlic
  • generous wine glass of port
  • olive oil, sea salt, pepper

And this is what I did:

  1. Trim the onions; chop the green parts of the scallions fine and quarter the bulbs.
  2. Slice or crush the garlic, and rinse the blackberries.
  3. Slash the skin of each duck breast 3 or 4 times and rub in freshly ground pepper and sea salt.
  4. Heat some olive oil in a good pan and fry the onion and garlic for 2-3 minutes until beginning to go translucent.
  5. Add the duck breasts and fry skin side down for 3-4 minutes so they get slightly browned.
  6. Turn the duck breats and add the blackberries; give them 2-3 minutes before adding the port.
  7. Cook for about 10-15 minutes (depending how well done you like your duck), turning the duck occasionally. I put a lid on the pan the keep the steam and flavours and speed the cooking a little.
  8. By this time the sauce should be reducing and beginning to get sticky; it will be a deep maroon colour (hence Ruddy Duck).
  9. When the duck is done, remove from the pan and slice thickly before serving with the pan juices.

I accompanied this with steamed new potatoes and a simple tomato, onion & rocket salad. But a lovely fresh vegetable like pak choi would work well too.

Enjoy a bottle of good robust red wine with it.

And yes, it was very good. Though I say it myself equally as good as one would get in most restaurants, and at least £10 a head less than even the cheapest would charge you.