Realising before Christmas that there was a deficiency in the drinks cabinet I was looking for a bottle of good, but not outrageously expensive, brandy.

I don’t know why, but for many years I have always veered towards Armagnac rather than Cognac (or even Calvados). It’s probably just down to quirkiness, and wanting to do things slightly unusual.

Anyway I chanced to look at Armagnac, and came across Armagnac XO Domaine Tariquet, which sounded worth trying. At the very least we’d have something reasonable for adulterating trifle etc.!

It was definitely worth trying, in fact for me it is a superb find. Although at first you may think it is an ordinary brandy it is not the all too common “fire water”. It is light, in both colour and intensity – unlike much easily available Cognac and even Janneau Armagnac. However don’t just gulp it down; it has to be savoured.

Now I’m not generally one for getting all the subtleties of aroma and bouquet from wine and spirits. I like wine; I enjoy the way wines differ and have overall different bouquet and flavour – but I don’t generally get the hints of plum, pear, walnut, or fresh tarmac, so beloved of wine writers. My palate is not that sophisticated; it is more “big picture” than fine detail.

But cup your glass of Tariquet in your hands to warm it slightly – as you should with all brandy (this is why brandy glasses are the shape they are!). The warmth releases all the more subtle aromas. And coming from the Tariquet is a divine waft of incense; proper church incense.

You know when you walk into an old church – Roman, Orthodox or High Anglican – there is this pervading aroma of incense? A background misty aromaticity of incense used over the years which emanates from the very fabric of the building? That is what I get from Tariquet. For me it is simply divine.

Armagnac XO Domaine Tariquet is available from Waitrose and many good wine merchants.